On the penultimate day of the itinerary sailing with the luxury cruise vessel Zafiro through the Pacaya Samiria Nature Reserve in the Peruvian Amazon, it was five in the afternoon and we were approaching the Yanayacu River, which in Quechua means yacu, water, and yana, black, for the kayaking activity.

All the passengers were ready to start one of the most appreciated and awaited activities. Kayaking in a small tributary of the Amazon where the water current is minimal and unperturbed, allows you to enjoy the splendour of the jungle without any motorised noise disturbing the sounds of the Amazon fauna.  Moreover, you can do it at your own pace and get close to the shore to observe the different animals that pass through the jungle.

At that time I was leading a trip for a group of Russians. Every four months I was in charge of organising, planning and supervising the trip they took on a cruise on the Amazon and then to Cuzco, Machu Picchu and other tourist attractions in Peru. They were five elderly couples and four young people with an infinite desire to enjoy the charms of the Andean country.

One of the things that never ceased to amaze me was the large number of Amazonian words and names of rivers, objects and animals they had in the jungle, even though the Inca empire had not dominated or conquered the area of the Amazon where we were. Here are a few examples:

Yanayacu : black water

Yacumama : mother of water

Sacha : wild

Supay : demon

Huairuro (wayrúru): inedible, two-coloured legume used as an ornament and good luck charm.

Cocha (kocha): small lake, also used as a synonym for puddle.

It is true, according to historians, that in recent years there had been discoveries that indicated the presence of Inca settlements in other parts of the Amazon, but not even in the area of Iquitos and its surroundings. Another point to highlight that also made me rethink the existence of other civilisations, was that there was the myth of the legendary city of El Dorado hidden in the Amazon. Supposedly made of gold, where many explorers for centuries had gone to find it, but with no luck or tangible proof of its past existence. On my arrival in Cusco I would once again try to investigate the Inca culture and its history.

While the guests were still enjoying the wonders of the Amazon and once we had a signal, I was in charge of contacting my colleagues in Cusco and Iquitos to make sure that everything was perfectly coordinated for our arrival. It is essential to have everything well organised in advance and to know the places personally for the trip and the experiences to be a success.

The next day, early after breakfast, all passengers boarded the private bus to the airport. Fortunately, our flight was on time and there was no Amazonian storm to delay it.

Arrival at Cusco

At Cusco airport, the first thing we noticed was the lack of oxygen which can cause soroche or altitude sickness as the city is 3,399 metres above sea level. Being with elderly passengers, I was very attentive to any inconvenience this could cause them. At the same door my companion Edwin was waiting for us with his assistants and the Russian-speaking translator they had asked me for their stay in the Inca capital. I thought it appropriate to accommodate them in the five-star luxury hotel Belmond Palacio Nazarenas, as the passengers were very demanding and I had to meet their high expectations. The hotel is a colonial house dating from the 17th century in Andean baroque style built on Inca walls. It is located in the Monumental Zone of Cusco and in 1983 it was declared by UNESCO as Cultural Heritage of Humanity. It is a very exclusive hotel with only 55 suites, each one enriched with oxygen to combat altitude sickness and with original Inca masonry. I always take my clients to places that are characteristic of the area where they can be immersed and enriched by the local culture, but without forgetting the comforts demanded by the passengers.

That night we rest and have dinner in the hotel’s Senzo restaurant of the famous Peruvian chef Virgilio Martinez. It is very important to take it easy on the first day as our body has to adapt to the drastic change in altitude. Fortunately at that time all the passengers were not suffering from any excessive symptoms.

Cusco Street Tour

We started walking through the beautiful, narrow and picturesque streets of the San Blas neighbourhood, located in the historic centre a few metres from the hotel. In its steep streets we could see colonial houses, handicraft workshops, the church of San Blas which is the oldest in the city built over an Inca temple and, being in the upper part of the town, the views are spectacular to contemplate Cusco. We also take the opportunity to go to Hatun Rumiyoc street where we find the famous stone of the twelve angles. Its great finish and perfectionist bordering denotes perfection as there are no asymmetries in its joints. They fit exactly with the other stones in the surrounding area and are a great example of the magnificent Inca architecture and their great knowledge in the evolution of construction. It has become a symbol of Cusco and a source of pride for the whole country and a representation of Inca architecture.

Walking through the streets, the young people approached one of the many people selling local handicrafts and costume jewellery. Suddenly a lady attracted their curiosity and they did not hesitate to approach her.

His gaze was penetrating and deep and left no one indifferent. They stood still, stunned and surprised. There were a few seconds of absolute silence while their gazes attracted each other. Suddenly, she began to speak to them in Quechua while her smile revealed a special charm and affection. Suddenly, she took out some cloth bracelets from her bag and placed them on their respective hands while she continued speaking in Quechua. At that moment, I had to ask Edwin to translate his words for us in order to understand the situation. He told me that he had given them the bracelets made with his own hands from alpaca material – Andean animals highly regarded for their wool quality – because of the connection he had made in those moments. He told them that he would give them luck and health as he blessed them. They were obviously delighted with the gift and immediately offered her money in return, as they did not see it in good taste if she received nothing in return. She flatly refused and insisted that it was an offering to the feeling she had perceived of their kindness. At his insistence they accepted the gift and embraced each other. As they left, she kissed them on their respective cheeks with great affection. The young people were captivated and amazed by the situation they had experienced.

Visit to Sacsayhuaman

Afterwards, we moved to the outskirts to visit Sacsayhuaman. Located two kilometres north of the city, it was a ceremonial Inca fortress that was begun in the 15th century. It is excellently maintained and forty percent of its ancient structure is preserved. The carving and velvety smoothness of the stone is impressive and makes it one of the most amazing buildings in the world. Every June 24th the Inti Raymi or Festival of the Sun is celebrated; it is a celebration that revalues the Inca tradition in the regions of the Andes. Sacrifices were made and dances were performed to worship the “Sun God”. Nowadays it attracts thousands of tourists annually and is very popular in Peru.

Chicha Restaurant

Once the tour was over, we headed to the Chicha restaurant of the famous Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio. The guests were able to enjoy the millenary gastronomic wisdom of Cusco at its best. I thought it appropriate to take my travellers to this restaurant because it perfectly represents the fusion of Andean food with the new concepts of Peruvian gastronomy. We ended up delighted.

San Pedro Market

After lunch we went to the San Pedro market designed by the French architect Gustave Eiffel. Markets always convey the essence of a place and its way of life. For this reason, they are a must-see. Not forgetting that it is the right place to observe, learn and get to know the local products. While we were smelling the smells we listened to the Quechua language, we observed the common gestures and habits of the Andean culture. We took advantage of the opportunity to talk to several local women.

Finally, they bought fresh Andean cheeses and handmade clothes so that they could take home an authentic souvenir of Cuzco.

Qorikancha Temple

To end the day we visit the temple of Qorikancha – in Quechua: Quri Kancha, “Golden Temple” – one of the most emblematic places of the ancient Inca capital. However, the first thing you see when you arrive is not the archaeological site, as the convent of Santo Domingo is built on top of it, leaving almost all the remains of the ancient temple hidden from the outside world. It was the main Inca sanctuary, which was later destroyed by the Spaniards during the colonisation process. The fine walls of the temple express the highest level of engineering reached by the Incas. Its smooth walls, joined with surgical precision and fitting seamlessly together, showed the perfection of their engineering and architectural work. A large part of the walls, as well as the doors and the temple were covered with a wide band of gold. Unfortunately, after the invasion it was looted and the gold stolen.

Once the tour was over, we strolled around the imposing Plaza de Armas and sat in a bar. We drank an infusion of coca leaves while contemplating the beauty of the architecture, especially the Cathedral and the Church. Afterwards we returned to the hotel and enjoyed a typical Andean dinner at the hotel to sleep early and regain strength for the next day.

Salineras de Maras, Moray and the Seven-Coloured Mountain

In the morning, we split into two groups. The older passengers and the younger ones. The youngers went to the seven-coloured mountain with a trustworthy guide who accompanied them all the way. This mountain called Vinicunca makes it special and unique, as its slopes and peaks are tinged with intense shades of fuchsia, turquoise, lavender and gold. The visual spectacle is lavish and colourful.

I decided to accompany the group of older people with Edwin and the translator. We were picked up in a private van and headed to the Maras salt pans, crossing the Andes and enjoying the spectacular scenery. The salt pans immersed in the breathtaking Andean beauty offered us another glimpse of the amazing Inca ingenuity and skill. The salt-encrusted ponds at Maras look like a blanket of snow covering the hillside. Each of the more than three thousand pools has varying shades of white and brown. The salt of Maras has been harvested since pre-Inca times. Today, they continue to provide the exquisite pink salt that is admired worldwide. The salt comes from an underground flow of salt water bubbling up from the mountain spring. When the water evaporates, the remaining crystallised salt is painstakingly extracted with shovels and wooden rakes. Today, they continue to provide the world-famous pink salt.

Afterwards, we go to the archaeological remains of Moray. From the viewpoint we find the emblematic amphitheatre of circular terraces. These concentric terraces were built by the Incas as an agricultural laboratory. Each of its terraces has its own microclimate, according to the depth at which it is located. It is believed that it was a centre for experimental studies used by the Incas to sow products that in other conditions, being surrounded by mountains, the climate created is temperate and dry at the same time.

The time flew by and we didn’t have much more time to enjoy the breathtaking scenery around us. I took the opportunity to call my partner who was with the young people and he told me that they were delighted with the visit to the seven coloured mountain and everything was going perfectly. It is essential to always be in touch to make sure that everything is running smoothly and that nothing is out of my control. When we got back into the van, the clients kept asking me where we were going to eat, but I flatly refused to reveal it as it was a surprise. I could see the mixture of astonishment and disbelief on their faces, but with significant enthusiasm.

Pachamanca

When we arrived at the restaurant, the guests were amazed by the place. We were surrounded by nature in the middle of the Andes in a privileged and unique location. Everything was prepared and ready to explain the famous Andean dish called Pachamanca. My friend was explaining us the history and the elaboration of this majestic dish. While she was showing us the products, two men were in charge of preparing it live. It has been made for thousands of years and is prepared by cooking it in the heat of pre-heated stones under the ground. It is the closest thing to a gastronomic ceremony.

While placing the hot stones in the ground, they would first add local maize and potatoes, and then add more stones and beef previously seasoned with local ingredients.

It seemed unimaginable that, without the use of fire or modern cooking tools, food could be prepared and cooked. Once all the food and stones were covered with a blanket, we sat down at the outdoor table and began to eat the first dishes.

We ordered Chicha, which is a drink derived mainly from the fermentation of purple corn, very typical of the American continent. Afterwards we were served the food of the Pachamanca. We enjoyed this delicacy enormously as all the products were one hundred percent natural and local, prepared splendidly by our companions. They were so at ease that the hours flew by as the surroundings were so enchanting and fascinating.

When it got dark we returned to the city of Cusco, strolled peacefully and went to the hotel. I met up again with the young people who had gone to the mountain of seven colours and they told me that their experience had also been spectacular. There was an inconvenience that saddened them because they could not find the bracelets that the lady had given them and that they had been so fond of. All the clients went to bed early as the next day we had to visit the most awaited and dreamed of moment of the trip to visit Machu Picchu.

Visit to Machu Picchu

Early in the morning we waited punctually for the van to take us to Poroy station to catch the train to Aguas Calientes. The clients were very excited as it is not every day that you visit one of the seven wonders of the world.  I had booked the Hiram Bingham train, the most luxurious and exclusive one. It is named after the American explorer who made public the existence of the Inca city of Machu Picchu in 1911. It is worth noting that he was not the discoverer as it was never really “lost” but he was the first person to recognise the importance of the ruins. During the journey we enjoyed live music, a gourmet lunch and from the open-air observatory carriage we were able to enjoy the wonderful route. The experience is unforgettable, not only because the service is personalised, but also because the journey is breathtaking as we pass through the Andean mountains with their abundant vegetation and observe the rivers, making it a fascinating moment.

We arrived at the last station called Machu Picchu Picchu although it is actually the town called Aguas Calientes. Once we arrived the bus was waiting for us to take us to the dazzling Machu Picchu. After 20 minutes we arrived at the gate of the majestic historical sanctuary. We entered directly with our guide, the translator and enjoyed the marvellous architectural and engineering masterpiece. Machu Picchu in Quechua means “Old Mountain”. It was built in the 15th century at 2430 meters above sea level.

While we were contemplating such beauty, the guide explained to us its extraordinary architecture and function. Machu Picchu is clearly divided into two main areas: the agricultural area, formed by groups of cultivation terraces, and the urban area, which is, of course, where the occupants lived and where the main civil and religious activities took place. Up to 1000 people lived in the urban area at the height of its splendour.

As he described the place to us, we could feel the magnitude of the place and the steepness of the terrain where it was built. I walked along the cultivated terraces and immediately felt the fatigue that comes with altitude sickness. I was extremely tired, and even though I had been in the Andes for several days and it was not my first time in Machu Picchu. I felt the lack of oxygen. I had to slow down my pace to be able to appreciate such a work of architecture with the rest and tranquillity it deserves.

Obviously at that moment they were shocked and amazed because they had never seen anything so spectacular. The more the guide explained to us, the deeper they got into the Inca society and its fascinating history.

A very curious fact that caught my attention was that Machu Picchu is home to 30 llamas that graze and roam peacefully around the site. All of them have their own name and are fed by the locals.

It is unbelievable how they could have built the sanctuary at such a height and brought the stones when the Incas did not know the wheel. Indeed, it is a magical place set in a dazzling location. After a few hours enjoying the sanctuary we had no choice but to leave as we had to catch a train to Ollantaytanbo station. On the train, all the clients were chatting happily and proud that their expectations had been more than fulfilled. Although it had been a long day and the tiredness was palpable, the happiness on their faces was significant. When we arrived at the station, they had booked their stay at the wonderful Tambo del Inca hotel in the middle of the Sacred Valley. On arrival, we all went to our respective rooms to rest and recharge our batteries for the next day. The young people, despite having enjoyed an unforgettable day, were still restlessly searching for the bracelets without luck.

Ollantaytambo

Unfortunately everything comes to an end and so does our trip. In the morning, we took a walk around the town of Urubamba and immediately we headed to the town of Ollantaytambo. It is the only Inca village that is still inhabited and they were amazed by its extraordinary urban planning. Its picturesque, cobbled and winding streets were worth appreciating in all their splendour while chatting with the locals dressed in local costumes.

I spoke to several families who were weaving, keeping intact traditions inherited from their ancestors, and watched the children at play. I couldn’t help but photograph them.

We had little time left and we had to take a quick look at the architectural complex that was once a military, religious and agricultural centre. They were pleasantly impressed by the fabulous scenery for its size and originality.

Urubamba

Without much more time, we returned to the hotel in the town of Urubamba. As it was a holiday I noticed a lot of movement in the central square, I approached and saw some women with expressive and characteristic hats. They were selling a kind of stew and I decided to buy a portion from them.

I ate it in a hurry before heading back to the hotel. I made sure that all the passengers had their luggage and we got into the van to head for Cusco airport. As we drove through the beautiful Andean scenery, we were reminded of all the experiences we had, how extraordinary Peru is, its people and its history. All the passengers were dazzled and excited.

Farewell to Asiri

When we arrived at the airport and were queuing to check in our luggage, the lady we had met in Cusco magically appeared. We were astonished! She had with her the bracelets that the young people had lost. When they saw her, they hugged her excitedly. As she handed them the bracelets she told us that she had been informed about what had happened and that was why she was there. She told us her name was Asiri which means “smile or smiling”in Quechua. He told the young people to always smile and be happy which is the most important thing in life. Without much more time as we had to board and could not miss the plane, they turned to embrace each other while tears were streaming down their faces.  We were all dazzled by their kindness and immediately as we said goodbye to Asiri, they put the bracelets on their wrists and took with them the best souvenir of Cusco they could have ever imagined.

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